A damaged door frame makes even a good door look and work badly. The latch will not catch, the door rattles in the wind, or there is a split running up from the lock that gets worse each time the door is slammed. Most door frame damage can be repaired rather than replaced, as long as the main timber is sound. This guide explains the common problems, how each is put right and when replacing the frame is the better answer.
Split frames
Splits usually start at the keep, where the latch or lock bolt goes into the frame. A door that has been forced, kicked or slammed repeatedly cracks the timber along the grain. On an internal lining, a short split can be glued and clamped, then screwed through to the wall behind so it cannot open again. A longer split, or one where a piece has broken out, is repaired by cutting out the damaged section and letting in a new piece of timber, glued and pinned, then shaped and painted to match.
On external frames, splits around the lock can also weaken security. A reinforcing plate or a new section of frame may be needed so the lock has solid timber to bite into.
Loose door stops
The stop is the thin strip of timber the door closes against. Stops are often only pinned on, and they come loose with paint build up, movement or when someone has tried to adjust them. A loose stop lets the door rattle or swing past its closed position. The fix is to remove the stop, clean it up and refix it with the door closed, so it sits lightly against the door face along its full length. Stops can also be repositioned to cure a door that does not close flush.
Damaged keeps and strike plates
If the latch will not catch, the keep may be in the wrong place, loose or worn. Doors drop over time, so a keep that once lined up may now be a few millimetres too high. Moving the keep, enlarging its opening slightly or packing it out often fixes the latch without touching the door. Where the screw holes are stripped, they are plugged with timber and redrilled. If the door itself is binding, the sticking door guide covers the causes.
Rotten external frame bottoms
The foot of an external door frame sits close to the ground, takes rain off the door and is often the first place rot sets in. Soft, spongy timber at the bottom of the jambs is a warning sign. If the rot is limited to the bottom few inches, the rotten section can be cut out and a new piece of treated timber spliced in, joined at an angle and fixed securely. The sill below may also need repair or replacement. If the rot runs higher up, or the whole frame is soft, replacing the frame is more sensible.
- Short split at the keep: glue, clamp and screw
- Broken out section: cut out and let in new timber
- Loose stop: remove, clean and refix
- Latch will not catch: move or pack the keep
- Rot at the foot: splice in treated timber
- Rot throughout: replace the frame
Repair or replace?
Repair makes sense when the damage is local and the rest of the frame is sound, square and firmly fixed to the wall. It keeps the original frame, avoids disturbing plaster and is usually quicker. Replacement makes sense when the frame is out of square, rotten over a large area, badly split in several places, or when a new door with a different size or style is going in anyway. With an external door, replacing the door and frame as a set is often the cleanest result, as explained on front door fitting.
Preventing it happening again
Most frame damage comes from a door that is not closing properly. A door that binds gets slammed, and slamming splits the frame. Getting the door hanging right, keeping external frames painted and sealed at the foot, and fitting a door stop or closer where doors swing hard against walls all help. Over painting is another culprit: layer on layer of gloss makes doors and stops bind until something gives.
Need it sorted? Book door fitting
Door frame repairs are booked through door fitting, where doors are eased, rehung and replaced. Send a photo of the damaged part of the frame, the whole door from both sides and the bottom of the frame if it is external, through the contact page for a quote.
Frequently asked questions
Related services
Related jobs
- Internal door hanging and fitting
- Skirting board and architrave fitting
- Wardrobe fitting and fitted wardrobes
- Alcove shelving and alcove cupboards
- Internal bifold door installation and sliding doors
- Loft hatch installation and enlarging loft hatches
- Kitchen fitters near me: kitchen fitting in Medway and Maidstone
- Front door fitting into existing openings
- Door handle replacement, latches and simple locks
- Fire door fitting: what is involved
- Window board fitting and internal sill replacement
Areas covered
Related guides
How much does a handyman charge per hour in the UK?
Hourly rates, half days and day rates explained in plain terms.
Why is my internal door sticking, and how is it fixed?
Rubbing, dropping and refusing to latch: the usual causes in order of likelihood.
Loft legs and raised loft boarding over insulation
Why squashing loft insulation costs you heat, and how raised boarding gives you storage without it.
Loft ladder installation cost: what drives the price
Why the hatch, not the ladder, usually decides the cost.
